Andrea Ruggiero

Aka Pupax
Lecco

Travels

Mallorca

Route and stops of the trip © OpenStreetMap contributors

Travel log

  1. PalmaEvening arrival, straight out in a Ford Fiesta
  2. South-east covesBoathouses and turquoise water
  3. Serra de TramuntanaThe road that squeezes through the rock
  4. SóllerThe wooden tram, in the evening
  5. PalmaLast morning in town

This was my first trip with Francesco Lietti and Pietro Martocchi, and it’s also the oldest one here. February 2019: in the morning I was at the University of Milano-Bicocca sitting my Programming 1 exam, and by the evening I was driving around Palma de Mallorca in a rented Ford Fiesta. A Ryanair flight from Orio al Serio, four days, no real plan. Without knowing it, we’d already found the formula we’d repeat for years.

Coves in winter

In February Mallorca is a different island. The beaches are empty, the sea is rough and the water is around 14 degrees, which is an excellent reason to just look at it. We drove along the coast more or less at random, stopping wherever the road let us: cliffs, a deserted beach, a turquoise cove with boathouses and little white houses with green doors.

Flat rocks and white houses facing the sea at Sa Ràpita
The cove at Cala Llombards with turquoise water and boathouses
Sa Ràpita and Cala Llombards, in February and with nobody around

At sunset we stopped below a lighthouse for a toast. With orange juice, because the prosecco was too expensive. Paella for dinner, and a bottle of limoncello they gave us on the house, to be finished within the next twenty minutes. We did our best.

A cliff at Capdepera lit orange by the setting sun
A plate of paella on the restaurant table in Alcúdia
Capdepera at sunset, then paella

The Tramuntana and Sóller

On the third day we headed up into the Serra de Tramuntana. The first road we picked ended at a sign: “carretera cortada a 250 mts, zona militar”. U-turn. The next one was beautiful, with a stretch where the tarmac runs through a narrow gap between two walls of rock. In the evening we came down to Sóller, just in time to see the old wooden tram cross the square.

The Sa Calobra road running through a narrow gap between two walls of rock
The sun setting over a sea of clouds in the Serra de Tramuntana
The gap in the rock and, in the evening, the sun over the clouds

We spent the last morning in Palma, among the arcades and the yellow façades with green shutters, before the flight home.

The yellow façades with green shutters and the arcades of Palma's Plaça Major
Palma, on the last morning

Practical notes

  • In winter the island is quiet and a long weekend is plenty to get around by car. Swimming, at 14 degrees, is optional.
  • Before taking minor roads in the mountains, check they’re open: we ran into one closed off as a military zone.
  • If you go to Sóller, stay until the evening to see the tram go by.